Spring Apron

Of all the tutorials I’ve done, this apron took the most time and work on my part to develop, so I’m kinda proud of it.  Now to find time to make one for myself!

Apron 0

To make this apron with a main fabric and contrast, as shown above, you’ll need

  • 1 2/3 yards of the main fabric (skirt, top and waist ties)
  • 1 1/2 yards of the contrast (ruffle, waistband, neck tie and pockets)

Wash and dry both fabrics before cutting so your apron can be washed later with little to no shrinkage.

You’ll also need this pattern.  It’s a big one – 25 pages – but for this project we’re dealing with large pieces.  You’ll have to piece them together by printing out the pages and matching the X’s.  The pieces overlap, so just look for matching letters next to the X.  It’s also printed on a grid, which should make it easier.

Fold the main fabric with the selvages together.  If you’re not familiar with the term, the selvage is the long finished edge on both sides of the fabric perpendicular to the cut edge.  Cut top and skirt as shown.  Mark dots on bottom edge of skirt and for pocket placement.

Apron 1

Unfold remaining fabric and fold with selvages apart, just enough to fit waist ties.  If the waist tie piece is too long to fit the width of your fabric, simply shorten it.  It won’t be noticeable on the finished apron because the ties are very long.

Apron 2

Fold the contrast fabric with the selvages on the same side, but only wide enough to accommodate the waistband, since it’s the tallest piece.  After cutting the other pieces, fold smaller for the pocket, as shown.  This will keep all your scrap fabric in a larger piece.  Fold the necktie and ruffle pattern pieces and cut on the fold.  Add the point to one end of the necktie.  Mark the dot on the waistband.

Apron 3

Use a 1/2” seam allowance for all stitching on the apron.

Fold the pocket, right sides together.  Stitch around edge, leaving a 1 1/2” opening on one side for turning.  Trim seam.  I leave the seam a bit wider at the opening to make it easier to turn in.  Turn right side out.  Press, turning in opening.  Repeat with remaining pocket.

Apron 4

Match top corners of pockets to dots on skirt.  Pin in place and stitch near edge, leaving top open. 

Apron 5

Turn sides of top under 1/2”, then turn edge in to fold to create a 1/4” rolled seam.  Press.  Trim off ends of seam even with lower edge of top.  Stitch.

Apron 6

Fold upper edge of top under 1 1/2”.  Press.  Fold edge under 1/4”.  Stitch near inner fold to create casing at neck.

Apron 7

Pin waistband to lower edge of top, right sides together, matching tip of lower edge of top to dot on waistband.  Stitch, slightly stretching waistband if necessary to match edge of top.

Apron 8

Lay waistband, with top attached, right side up.  Pin upper edge of skirt to raw edge with right sides together.  Stitch.  Press seam toward waistband.

Apron 9

Fold waist tie right sides together.  Stitch, leaving straight end open.  Clip corners.  Turn.  Press.  Topstitch.  Repeat with remaining waist tie.  No, the end is not symmetrical.  Yes, it was an accident.  I decided I like it, but if it bugs you, feel free to fix it on your pattern before cutting.

Apron 10

Match raw end of waist tie to edge of waistband, with the edge next to the skirt seam, right sides together.  Stitch.

Apron 12

Fold short ends of remaining waistband piece under 1/2”.  Press.  Fold top down over skirt. 

Apron 13

With right side facing top, pin second waistband to first, sandwiching top between, and matching folded edge to stitching line where waist ties were attached. 

Apron 14

Sew along previous stitching line.  Press waistbands down toward skirt.

Apron 15

Sew short ends of ruffle pieces right sides together to create one long strip.  Zigzag stitch over edges of seams to finish.  Press seams to one side. 

Apron 17

Turn one long edge under 1/2” and then turn the edge into the fold for a 1/4” rolled hem.  Stitch.  Do the same on both short ends.

Apron 18

Stitch a long basting stitch 5/8” from raw edge, then 1/4” from that.  Stop and restart stitching at each seam, leaving long threads.  Mark center on edge of skirt.

Apron 19

Pin ruffle to bottom edge of skirt, right sides together, matching center and dots on skirt to seams on ruffle.  Ends of ruffle should be next to waistband seams.

Apron 20.1

Gather each section of ruffle by tying long threads together at one end and pulling threads from the other.  Even out gathers and pin. 

Apron 20

Stitch.  Remove basting threads.  Zigzag stitch over edge of seam.  Press seam up toward skirt.  Top stitch near the edge of skirt through seam and again 1/4” away.

Apron 21

Turn remaining raw edge of waistband under 1/2”.  Press. 

Apron 16

Pin over first waistband, covering raw seams on upper edge of skirt and at sides where waist ties were sewn on. Topstitch.

Apron 22

Stitch short ends of neck tie pieces right sides together to create one long piece.  Press seam open.  Fold right sides together.  Stitch, leaving an opening near the middle.  Trim seam.  Turn.  Press, turning in opening.  Top stitch.

Apron 23

Feed neck tie though casing at upper edge of top.  Make sure neck tie is flat and centered.  Stitch through casing at center to hold neck tie in place.  Push sides of casing toward center while holding neck ties to gather.

Apron 25

Ready for the kitchen!  Hang onto those leftover fabric scraps – I’ve got another cute kitchen project coming next week.

Apron 24

If you happen to make one of these yourself, I’d love to see a photo.  Just send one (or two!) to me at craftystaci (at) gmail (dot) com and I’ll feature them here!

23 thoughts on “Spring Apron

  1. I want to thank you for your pattern, it is very gracious of you to share it with all of us. I absolutely love it, so like you, I will have to find time to make it. You are so talented and generous, thanks again.


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    • I should have mentioned that, and I’m surprised you’re the first to ask! 🙂 Yes, they are 1″. Make sure when you print that it isn’t set to “scale to fit” so they print full size.


      • Thanks! I have such a horrid time getting my pdfs to print correctly. I think it’s the output of my printer. So I always rely on the 1″ test square. Perfect!

        Liked by 1 person

  5. Love this pattern, I just printed it out and i am making it for my daughter for Christmas. This will be my first sewing project since 9th grade. So I am hoping it turns out seeing its been almost 24 years since i have sewed anything or even used a sewing machine….


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